Right, had some time this week to work on the Ten.
Nice package arrived from the States containing, Full Ti Evo system, Woodcraft cases, Driven rearsets, Smog block off plates and fuel cap.
Sourced in this Country, Ohlins TTX GP shock and plus 25mm clipons from the Harris brothers, a natty little Lithium Ion Battery which weighs bugger all, Activ quick throttle, AVS shorty clutch lever, Gilles crash bungs and a nice box of CF Mudguard, hugger, frame and swingarm covers from Jap4performance, nice Tracktanium lever guard from Parkitt racing.
I saved the HPK calipers and RCS m/c off my gixer as they fit without mods.
I also made a nice little bracket to mount my starlane on.
First job was getting rid of the pair system, which meant replacing the inlet plates on the rocker cover with block off plates, then replacing the solenoids with resistors to stop the ecu throwing up a fault light. Straightforward enough but a but of a pain with the space you have to work in.
Next up the straightforward jobs of fitting the other components
The full system is a work of art and went on perfectly.
This is the first time I've used Driven rearsets and they went on perfectly, very quality.ther
All the other components went on without drama apart from the quick throttle which was a bit of a faff to get right.Its on and working properly, but I do think the Accosatto I had on my Gixer was an easier fit.
So put the rad back on, top up the coolant and lets hear the Akra!
This is where the mare begins!
Bike started straight up, but was throwing a fI light. Being new to Kawasaki's this meant downloading a manual to find out how to identify the actual fault.
Turns out to be code 16 which is no2 Intake air pressure sensor which is located lefthand side of throttle bodies.
So swaps it for no1 IAPS, fault still there, so not sensor. follow the fault finding guide, measuring the voltages in and out of sensor. After each step you have to put the bloody thing back together to run it and each time still showing a fault.
After fannying on all afternoon I decided to step back and come back fresh next day. Time for Beer!
Next morning, check the continuity between sensor and ecu, all fine.
Manual says faulty ecu aarghh!
Decide that I'll put it back together and let Pete Clifford have a look when it goes in for ecu reflash.
So start it up and fault light goes off. Why? Ive got no idea, I checked and couldn't find a fault, didn't do anything, it went away by itself.
Don't you just hate electrics?
Anyway, here's a few pics
[imghttp://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae121/mandmresidential/IMG_0476_zpsb81d0bda.jpg][/img]